Strip-feeding means for sewing-machines.



l i l Patented Aug. 27,

l. P. WEIS.

STRIP FEEDING MEANS FUR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED IuLY I2. I9I5.

1.277,60@ Patented Aug. 27, 1918.

5 SHEE [S'YSHEEI 2.

57 Vwa v1 hoz J. P. WEIS.

STRIP FEEDlNG MEANS FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 12. i915.

Patented Aug. 27, 1918.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

J. vP.. WEIS.

STRIP FEEDING MEANS FOR SEWlNG MACHINES.

APPLlcAloN FILED JULY 12.1915.

1,277,00. Patented Aug. 27, 1918.l

5 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

J. P. WElS.

STRIP EEEDING MEANS FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLlCATlON FLED JULY 12,1915. l 277,004 Patented Aug. 27, 1918.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

5 wvwwtoz.

JOHN P. WEIS, OF NYACK, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR, BY MSNE ASSIGNMENTS, TO METRO- POLITAN SEWING MACHINE CORPORATION, 0F DOVER, DELAWARE, A CORPORATION OF DELAWARE.

STBIP-FEDING'MEANS FOB, SEWING-MACHINES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 27, 1918.

Application led Ju1y 12, 1915. Serial No. 39,222.

To all u'wm it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN P. Wins, a citizen of the United States, residing at Nyack, in the county of Rockland and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Strip-Feeding Means foi` Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to sewing machines, and while particularly adapted for hemming the waist bands and bottoms of knickcrbocker bloomers and the like, it may also be used for a variety of purposes, such as hemming and inserting an elastic strip in the bottoms of shirtwaists or the tops of skirts, dusting caps, bathing suits, blouses, etc.l It may be equally lwell adapted for various uses other than hemming where a strong top and bottom feeding action is required.

In the hemming of knickerbocker bloomers, the lusual method has been to seam up the garment, then cover the edge of the top and bottom with an overstitch to form a selvage, then the work was passed on to a hemming machine where the tops and bottoms were turned over and at the same time the operators would insert a loop of elastic, guiding it in by hand into the folded hem while the stitching proceeded. These elastic bands were made endless by a separate operation, to facilitate the handling by the operators, who did the hemming. Another method was to prepare the work as above and after the garments were finished the elastic band was inserted with. a bodkin or other instrument by hand and the ends joined. These methods have proven to be very slow and expensive, because it is diiicult to predetermine the lengths of the rubber band with respect to the size of the garments before and after nishing. That is to say, the elastic strip as used is far from being uniform in width, thickness and elasticity, therefore when it is cut in predetermined lengths and made endless in loop form one loop will have a greater amount of elasticity than another and great difficulty has been experienced in getting a uniform finish for the Work.

All this is done away with by the present method and improved machine, by means of which the hemming, overstitching, inserting and guiding of the elastic 'strip is automatically performed and yet manually controlled, so that the amount of the elastic str1p inserted is practically determined by the size of the garment being stitched, while the amount of gathering of the goods at the hem is determined and controlled by the mechanism for guiding the elastic strip, thus greatly simplifyingthe operation and enabling a large production of uniform Work with a neatly covered edge and with the elastic strip securely fastened at the beginning and ending of the stitching operations.

A still more important feature of the present invention resides in the fact that it is desirable to have the front portion of the garment, especially a waist band, free from gathers so that it will lie flat, and also to control the gathered portions at the sides and rear thereof so that no bulky appearance will appear at the front. This was not possible with the old methods, for in order to accomplish this the elastic band must be in a normal condition at the front, where no gathers appear, and be stitched at this portion to maintain this condition, otherwise the gatherswould creep or shift along the elastic band from place to place. This was a serious objection to the work produced by the old methods.

In the drawings accompanying and forming part of this specification, Figure l is a front view of the machine; Fig. 2 is an end view of Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a top View of the working mechanism showing the goods feeding to and from the stitching and feeding mechanism, the top arm being removed to show the juxtaposition of the hemming guide, the elastic guide and the controlling guide acting in and upon the hem; Fig. 4 is a partly sectional view of the stitching and eeding mechanism taken on line 1-1 of Fig. l; Fig. 5 is a front View showing various parts in section and is intended to illustrate the clamping mechanism by means of which the elastic band is placed under tension and how itsguiding means is shifted laterally simultaneously with the action of this mechanism; Fig. 6 shows the hemmed portion of a garment produced by this improved machine; F ig. 7 is a detail perspective view of the elastic tension release and guiding means; and Fig. 8 is a perspective detail View of one of the clamping plates,

showing the knurled or serrated surface over which the elastic strip passes.

ySimilar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the dierent figures of the drawings.

rThe base 1 of the sewing machine frame has suitable bearings 2 and l in which thc main driving shaft 3 is supported. An overhanging arm 5 carries the usual needle bar bearings 6 and needle operating mechanism indicated generally by 7, which is of well known construction, operated from the hand wheel and eccentric 8 carried by the main shaft 3. Stitch regulating mechanism 9 for actuating the feed has the well known adjustable crank device 10 for operating the feeding mechanism. rThe looper mechanism 11 is of the well known twin needle, single looper Metropolitan construction, and therefore a detailed descriptionr thereof is deemed unnecessary. A pitman 12 extends from the adjustable crank 10 to the rocker frame 13, which is pivotally supported, as at 111, on the machine base 1 and has connected therewith the usual feed bar 15 pivotally connected at 16 to the feed lift eccentric strap 17, operated by the eccentric 18 carried by the main shaft adjacent to the looper vibrating eccentric 19, see Fig. 5. The lower feed dog 20, see Fig. 4, coperates with the presser foot 21 carried by the presser bar 22, which operates in the well known manner to coact in the feeding and stitching of the work. A top feeding mechanism also coacts with the presser foot mechanism and the bottom feeding mechanism and has an arm 23 secured' to a shaft 24 carried by the rocker frame 13, and as the feed bar 15 is alsosecured to this shaft 24 there is a fixed relation between the pivot 16 and the rock shaft 25 carried by the arm 23. rlhat is to say, these two parts are practically as one when secured to the shaft 24, so that any movement imparted to the bottom feed dog is also imparted by means of the curved arm 23 to the top feed dogs 26 and 27 of the arm 23. The top feeds 26 and 27 are adjustably secured to a rock shaft 25 by clamping means 29, which affords a means of setting the top feed dogs to and from the bottom feed to suit the requirements. The feed dogs 26 and 27 eX- tend from the rear of the stitching mechanism up, into and along the side of the presser foot 21, so that a portion of the feed dog 27 extends and operates in the rear and in line with the stitching mechanism while the feed dog 26 operates adjacent thereto. Each of these feed dogs has an upturned end 30 so as not to hook into the top portion of the hem at the commencement of the stitching operation. The upturned end 31 of the presser foot 2O is for the same purpose. rfhese upturned ends of the presser foot and feed dogs respectively assist Lamette greatly in the rapid handling of the work. The rock shaft 25 has a threaded end 32 to receive nuts 33, thereby to control the end movement of the shaft 25. Secured to the other end of this shaft 25 is an arm 34 extending forwardly and having pivotally attached thereto a link 35. A similar parallel link 36 also pivotally secured to the arm 3e on a center with the shaft 25, so that it will have merely a lifting action during its travel to and fro. The top end of this link 36 is pivotally secured to a rocker arm 38, which is pivotally secured, as at 39, to a yoke 4:0. The yoke 40 isdrilled to receive the presserfoot bar 22 and is slotted to straddle the presser foot guide bar 43. The forward end of the rocker arm 38 has pivotally secured thereto the top of the link A coil spring 45 carried by the presser foot bar 22 has one end resting on the yoke 40 and the other end resting against the adjustable platejl, which is bent at right angles and fork shaped to straddle the presser foot bar and alords a means of adjusting the pressure of the top feed dogs on the work. The guide bar 43 is connected with the presser foot bar by the connection 48 so as to have the same vertical rise and fall as the presser foot bar and operates in the 'bearings 49 and carries a pin 50 at the lower end thereof to act as an abutment to limit the downward movement of the yoke l0. This also affords a means of lifting the top feed members from the work at the time the presser foot is lifted, and under normal working conditions, that is when the work is under the presser foot, the upper feed dogs are lifted slightly and by reason of the link 35 the yoke 40 is lifted away from the pin 50 so that an independent pressure is exerted through the top feed mechanism on the work from the spring 45, while the main pressure is exerted from the spring 51 to the presser bar 22 and the presser foot 21 independently of the spring 45, so that pressure or action .of one will not interfere with the other to a limited degree.

F rom the foregoing it will be seen that the feeding movements of the bottom feed are transmitted through the arm 23 to the feed dogs 26 and 27 to and fro past the stitching mechanism, while the lifting movement of the feed dogs 26 and 27 is also transmitted through the arm 23 from the lower feeding means through the rock shaft 25, and by reason of the links and 36 connected to the arm 31 and to the rocker arm 38 the upward movement of the link 36, caused by the lifting of the bottom feed dog, will rock the arm 38 on the pivot 39 so that the link 35 and the top feeds 26 and 27 will move downward to clamp the work on to the bottom feed 20. That is to say, a clamping up and down movement and a pulling movement are obtained in the construction shown. At the rear end of a feeding stroke the reverse action takes place. The bottom feed is drawn downward away from the work, the top feeds lifted upward away from the Work as they move forward and at the forward end of the stroke they are brought together to again clamp the work in the. feeding action.

Heretofore the connecting and actuating means from the bottom feed to the top feed extended directly from the end of the feed bar, which carries the feed dog, through the usual opening in the cloth plate, and therefore to remove the cloth plate this connecting means had to be swung out of position, being hinged or otherwise constructed to permit the removal of the cloth plate, whereas in the present construction the curved arm 23 extending from the upper shaft 24 and up over the cloth plate has its hub 28 in substantially the same location as if the link or connecting means were connected directly as above described. Thus it will be seen that the cloth plate generally indicated by 52, being slotted at 53, may be removed without disturbing or disconnecting the top feeding mechanism from the bottom feeding mechanism.

The cloth plate 52 is provided with a slide plate 55, see Fig. 3, having adjustably secured thereto a guide 56, which is provided with an upstanding portion 57 to guide the edge of the hem 58 at the stitching position. Adjustably secured to the cloth plate in front of the stitching position is the hemming guide 59 having an overhanging extension 60 and a reduced portion 6l extending close to the needles to guide the raw edge of the work in between the two needles so that it will be covered by the overstitch made from the two needle threads and the looper thread. Overhanging the reduced portion 6l of the hemming guide is a flattened guide tube 62, slotted as at 63 on an angle of forty-ve degrees for the passage of the elastic strip. This tube is secured to a slide 64 confined to lateral movements by the screws 65, that is movements transversely of the line of stitches or the direction of feed of the work. This slide 64 is slotted as at 66 at the outer end and is bent down, as at 67, to coact with a wedge or cam piece 68 carried by a rod 69 provided 1 with a collar 70, see Figs. 2 and 7, having an outwardly and upwardly projecting arm 71 having a beveled or tooth-formed end 71.

The rod 69 operates in a bearing 72 having a base 73 secured to the table top 74, and this guides the rod in its vertical movements. A hole 75 in the table top 74 provides a space for the spring 76 which surrounds the rod 69, with one end acting against the bottom of the bearing 72 and the other end against a collar 77 thereby to normally hold the rod 69 downward. A ioor treadle 83 is,

by means of a chain 82, connected with a lever 79 pivotally carried by a bracket 81, and this lever 79 has connection with the rod 69 thereby to shift it upward against the action of its spring 76 when the'treadle is operated. Secured to the depending end 84 of the cloth plate 52 is a clamping plate 85 having a clamping tension member 86 pivoted at 87 and drilled at 88 to receive a tension post 89, which is secured in the plate 85. Said tension post carries a spring 90 and adjusting means 91 to regulate the pressure of the clamping member 86 against the plate 85. The clamping member 86 has reinforcing ribs 92 to prevent bending at the hole 88, Where the pressure occurs. The front end of this clampingmember 86 is provided at both its top and bottom edges with guiding projections 93, thereby forming guides for the elastic strip. The clamping plate also has a forwardly extending curved end 94 coacting with a somewhat the plate 85 and member 86 may be knurled orv serrated, as at 96 Fig. 8, to insure more effective action if desired. Located underneath the table is a supply of the elastic band or strip 97, and this extends upward so as to pass between the plates 85 and 86 and the guides 93 of the clamping plate 86 overhanging the top and bottom edges of the plate 85, which thus guide the elastic strip to the slot 66, from whence it passes to the top and over the shiftable slide or plate 64 into the angular slot 63 of the tube 62 which operates close to the stitching mechanism and by which its direction of movement is changed. The cloth plate 52 carries a pin 98, see Fig. 7, to which is secured a spring 99, the opposite end of which is attached to the slide 64, as at 100, and this spring `normally holds the end 67 of the slide against the beveled end of the wedge v68 so .that the delivery end of the tube 62 is at the right of and delivers the tape out of the path of the needles.

Referring to 'the drawing, A represents one portion or half of a bloomer top or other garment; VB represents another portion or the other half thereof; C, C represent the front and rear seams joining these two portions or halves together after the hemming in done; D represents the plain portion of the hem at the front, a part of which extends at each side of the front seam C, in other words that portion thereof where the elastic strip S is not stretched during the formation of the garment and which portion of the elastic strip is shown stitched to the garment by a line of stitching as D; E represents the point at which tension was applied to the elastic strip S; E the point where the tension is released on the strip; and F the finish of that portion of the hem where the elastic strip is fastened for a short distance bv the stitches F, and during which tacking of the strip the elastic strip is, as stated, released from its tension and 1S therefore not stretched; Gr represents the commencement of the hem of the other portion or half of the garment where the end of the elastic strip is fastened for a short distance by the stitches G', and at which time likewise the elastic strip is not tensioned or stretched; H the part where the strip is again placed under tension; and H the point at which the tension 1s released from the elastic strip and therefore represents the end of the gathered portion on the side A of the article. After the two halves of the garment are formed in the manner stated, they are brought together and then seamed up at the front and back as at C, C, and of course these seams are somewhat wider than the lines C, C, indicate in the drawing and the seam for instance, referring to the back seam, would probably extend from F to G. The seaming of the front at in a garment of this kind also connects the two elastic strip ends to the garment by a vertical line of stitches as D2 and so also the seaniing of the back connects the two ad jacent ends of the elastic strips by a vertical line of stitches provided of course the operator has terminated the ends fof the elastic strips sufficiently close to the seams to permit this. This is not essential however. rlhus it will be seen that in the garment shown the elastic strip is inserted into the hem of the garment and the raw edge of the hem is covered by a row or rows of stitches, and that the elastic strips are fastened at the rear seam in the midst of the gathers for a short distance to each side of such rear seam, and also fastened at the front seam in the center of the plain portion as well as for a few inches to each side of such front seam. rlhat is to say, at this plain portion in front the elastic is stitched along its edge as at D by the inside needle of the two-needle machine for a distance of three or four inches each side of the center seam, so that this leaves the plain portion of the hem without gathers at the front of the garment While confining all the gathers at the sides and rear thereof. The leg portions (that is, around the bottom of the leg portions) are hemmed in a similar manner with a short plain portion at the joining seam where the ends of the elastic are stitched for about half an inch each side of the seam. In manufacturing this garment, the two halves or portions of the garment come to the machine operator as they are cut and before any seaming up is done. The heins are made around the bottom of Lernens the legs and at the top or waist band by shifting the elastic iide when a shiftable guide is used or by reeing the elastic from any tension so as to leave it unstretched, so that the elastic will be in the path of a needle and thus be stitched at the beginning of the operation, whereupon the elastic guide is either shifted and tensioned or retarded, or the elastic stretched, so as to carry it free of the stitching needles and maintained in this stretched condition as the goods are fed on to the elastic and until that portion of the garment where there are to be no gathers is reached, whereupon the elastic guide is shifted back and released or simply released when it has not been shifted, so that the needle will stitch the elastic to the garment, whereupon the other half of the garment is made in a similar manner and the two portions of the garment connected by a seam up each leg portion and by seaming up the front and rear of the body portion as shown at C, C, thus completing the garment.

'lhus when the article is finished that portion of the garment in juxtaposition to the' stretched elastic will be gathered as the elastic returns to its normal condition while that portion of the garment in juxtaposition to that part of the elastic that was not tensioned or stretched will remain plain, and in the drawing this portion is shown at the front of the garment although obviously the plain portion may be located at any desired point as circumstances might require. ln a waist, for instance, the garment would be gathered practically throughout its entire circumference and the plain portions only of the waist would be but short ones, where the buttons and button holes or other fastening means are used.

ln other words, when the work is removed from the machine the elastic strip resumes its normal condition and so gathers the hein as illustrated at E to E and H to H', while those portions of the elastic strip which are stitched to the garment (and this includes the ends at F and G) are fastened and do not become displaced while in the hem.

1t will be understood of course that the gathering of the hem takes place as the stretched elastic resumes its normal or unstretched condition, so that the garment is gathered as it leaves the feeding and presserfoot mechanism of the machine in just the place and in the manner desired by the operator at any time according to the class of article being made, and therefore it will be seen that the location of the gathered and plain portions may vary in dierent garments or even in different portions of the same garment. For instance in the garment illustrated the plain portion is shown at the front, while the gathered portions are at the sides and rear, because only a small portion of the ends of the elastic strip already at the rear seam are tacked and therefore when the rear seamis formed the garment will be gathered practically up to such seam; In a shirt waist, however, as stated, the gathers would be all the way around except at the meeting edges where the buttons or other fastening means is placed, at which points the garment will have short plain portions, to facilitate the placing of the buttons and the overlapping of such meeting edges of the garment. Around the bottom of the bloomers also the gathers usually eX- tend all the way around except at the'leg seam, on the opposite sides of which seam the elastic is tacked and therefore is not stitched during the tacking operation. While the method heretofore used was as follows: The cut garments were seamed up, the legs and body portions joined, the edges were overstitched on an overstitch machine to cover the raW edge. The arment was then hemmed on a separate mac ine, usually a single needle machine, and then the elastic inserted with a bodkin, or in some cases the elastic was inserted at the time of the hemming and then drawn taut at the finish and tacked down. These, of course, were very slow methods, and the work was unsightly.

From the foregoing it will be seen that when the treadle 83 is operated the lever 79 will actuate the rod 69 and compress the spring 76, thus forcing the beveled end 71 of the clamp release between the members 85 and 86 of the clamping device so as to open the same and release the elastic strip so that it will move freely from ythe supply to and past the stitching position. At the same time the wedge 68 of the slide shifter moving u ward forces the depending end 67 of the s ide 64 outward, thereby shifting the guide tube 62 to the left so that the right hand needle will penetrate and stitch the elastic at all 'times while the mechanism remains in said position, as at D Fig. 6. Instantly, as the treadle 83 is released, the springs 76 and 99 cause the wedge 68, clamp release 71 and the slide 64 carrying the elastic tube to assume their normal positions and so keep the elastic free and away from the 'stitching line, while maintaining the elastic in a stretched condition to its full eX- tent, or nearly so. That is to say, at the time the elastic strip is clamped between the plates 85 and 86, and consequently as the work passes through the stitching mechanism, the elastic strip is automatically stretched and not sewed along its edge, so that'when the work is removed from the machine this elastic strip assumes its normal condition and so gathers the hem as illustrated at E to E and H to H. This action on the piece of Work illustrated takes place at the beginning and ending of each piece being stitched or tacked so that the ends of the elastic are fastened and will not become displaced while in the hem, and, asstated, as the Work is delivered from the machine the elastic assumes its normal or unstretched condition, gathering the goods as it leaves the feeding and presser footv mechanism.

From the foregoing it Will be seen that in order to stitch and feed the work properly, as well as the elastic strip under heavy tension, a very strong feeding action is necessary, which is obtained in the mechanism described and by means of which the hemmmg operations are performed on one machme rapidly in a simple manner, whereas heretofore several machines were required, constituting as many operations to complete the work.

In some instances the shiftable elastic,

strip guide may be stationary, byV reason of the fact that when tensionis placed upon the elastic stripit narrows the same so that ywill still be operated through the medium of the treadle and the part 71 carried by the rod 69.

The term clamped as used in the speciiication and claims is intended to mean that the band is clamped or tensioned in such Vmanner that the normal feeding movement thereof is retarded sufliciently to accomplish the purpose setforth, and this retardation may be accomplished by so clamping or retarding the normal feed movement of the strip without necessarily positively clamping it so as to entirely prevent all movement thereof.

I claim as my invention:

1. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching and feeding mechanism hemming means, means for guiding an elastic strip into position within the hem, means for shifting said elastic strip to and from the stitching mechanism, and means for clamping said elastic strip when shifted away from the stitching mechanism and for releasing it when shifted into the path of the stitching mechanism.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching and feeding mechanism, hemming means, means for guiding an elastic strip into position within the hem, means for shifting said elastic strip to and from the stitching mechanism, and means for clamping said elastic strip when shifted .away from the stitching mechanism and for the stitching mechanism, said guiding means including means for reversing the elastic strip. l

In a sewing machine, the combination ot' stitching and feeding mechanism, hemming means, means for guiding an elastic strip into position within the hem, means for shift-ing said elastic strip to and from the stitching mechanism, means for clamping said elastic strip when shifted away from the stitching mechanism and for releasing it when shifted into the path of the stitching mechanism, said guiding means including means for reversing the elastic strip, and means under the control of the operator for operating said shifting and clamping means.

Jr. ln a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism and hemming means, of shiftable means for guiding an elastic strip into the hem, and means for shifting said strip guiding means thereby to shift. the elastic strip into and out of the path of the stitching mechanism, and mechanism controlled by said means for shifting tor placing the strip under tension during a part of its movement.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism and hemming means, of shittable means for reversing and guiding an elastic strip into the hem, and means for shifting said strip guiding means thereby to shift the elastic strip into and out of the path of the stitching` mechanism and mechanism controlled by said means for shifting for placing the strip under tension during a part of its movement.

G. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism and hemming means, of means for guiding an elastic strip into the hem, and means for clamping the strip at one time and for releasing it at another time, the-organization being such that when the elastic strip is clamped such strip is stretched and when released it is permitted to return to its normal unstretched condition.

7. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism and hemming means, of means for reversing and guiding an elastic strip into the hem. and means for clamping the strip at one time and for releasingit at another time, the organization being such that when the elastic strip is clamped such strip is stretched and when released it is permitted to return to its normal unstretched condition.

8. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism and hemming means, of shiftable means for guiding an elastic strip into the hem, means for shifting said strip guiding stitching mechanism, and means controlled by said means for shifting, for clamping the strip at one time and for releasing it at another time.

10. 1n a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism and hemming means, of shitable means for reversing and guiding an elastic strip into the hem, means for shifting said strip guiding means thereby to shift the elastic strip into and out of the path of the stitching mechanism and comprising a spring and manually controlled means, and means for clamping the strip at one time and for releasing it at another time.

11. 1n a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism and hemming means, of shiftable means for reversing and guiding an elastic strip into the hem, means for, shifting said strip guiding means thereby to shift the elastic strip into and out of the path of the stitching mechanism and comprising a spring and manually controlled means including treadle operated means, and means for clamping the strip at one time and for releasing it at another time.

l2. 1n a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism and feeding mechanism, of means for guiding an elastic strip to the stitching mechanism, and means for shifting said strip guiding means into and out of the path of the stitching mechanism and mechanism controlled by said mtans for shitting for placing the strip under tension during a part of its movement.

13. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism and feeding mechanism, of means for guiding an elastic strip to the stitching mechanism, means for shifting said strip guiding means into and out of the path of the stitching mechanism, means for clamping said elast-ic strip while in one of these positions and means carried by said means for shifting for releasing said clamping means.

14. 1n a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism and feeding mechanism, of means for guiding an elastic strip to the stitching mechanism, means for shifting said strip guiding means into and out of the path of the stitching mechanism, and

Larmes l.

means for clamping said elastic strip when shifted out of the path of the stitching mechanism. A

15. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism and feeding mechanism, of means for guiding an-elastic strip to the stitching mechanism, and means for shifting saidy strip iding means into and out of the path of't e stitching mechanism, said guiding means including means for reversing the strip and for placing the strip under tension at one time to retard its feeding movement.

16. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism and feeding mechanism, of means for guiding an elastic strip to the stitching mechanism, means for shifting said strip guiding means into and out of the path of the stitching mechanism, and means for clamping said elastic strip while in one of these positions.

17. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism and feeding mechanism, of means for guiding an elastic strip to the stitching mechanism, means for shifting said stripv iding means into and out of the path of t e stitching `mechanism, and means for clamping-said elastic strip while out of the path of the stitching mechanism to retard its forward movement, said guiding means including means for reversing the strip.

18. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism and feeding mechanism, of means for guiding an elastic strip to the stitching mechanism, means for shifting said strip guiding means into the path of the stitching mechanism and comprising a manually operated means, and means for shifting said strip guiding means out of the path of the stitching mechanism and placing it under tension .and comprising spring actuated means.

19. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism and feeding mech-v ing the strip at different times.

20. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism and feeding mechanism, of means for guiding an elastic strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable guide member, a spring for shifting it in one direction and manually operated means for shifting it in the opposite direction, means for clamping said strip when shifted in one direction, and clamp releasing means simultaneously operative with the shifting of the strip in one direction.

' with 21. In a sewing machine,'the combination with stitching mechanism and feeding mechanism, of means for guiding an elastic strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable guide member, a spring for shifting it in one direction and manually operated. means for shifting it in the opposite direction, means for clamping said strip when shifted in one direction, and clamp releasing means simultaneously operative with the shifting of the strip in one direction, one of said guide shifting means and said clamp releasing means comprising beveled members. 22. In a sewing machine, the combination stitching mechanism and feeding mechanism, of means for guiding an elastic strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable guide member, a spring for shifting it in one direction and manually operated means for shifting it in the opposite direction, means for clamping said strip when shifted in one direction, and clamp releasing means simultaneously operative with the shifting of the strip in one direction, one of said guide shifting means and said clamp releasing means comprising beveled members and a treadle connected with both. of said members.

23. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism,

' means for holding said strip out of the path of the stitching mechanism and placing it imder tension, and means for shifting said strip into the path of the stitching mechanism and releasing the tension thereon.

24. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for reversing and guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for holding said strip out of the path of the stitching mechanism and placing it under tension, and means for shifting said strip into the path of the stitching mechanism and releasing the tension thereon.

25. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for holding said strip out of the path of the stitching mechanism while placing it under tension, and means for shifting said strip into the path of the stitching mechanism and releasing the tension thereon, said last means comprising pedally operated means.

26. In asewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for holding said strip out of the path of the stitching mechanism, means for shifting said strip into the path of the stitching mechanism, and clamping means for retarding the movement of the strip at one time.

27. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for holding said strip out of the path of the stitching mechanism, means for shifting said strip into the path of the stitching mechanism, clamping means for placing the strip under tension during a. certain period, and retarding the movement of the strip at one time and eiiective to release the strip to permit movement thereof at another time.

2S. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for holding said strip out of the path of the stitching mechanism, means for shifting said strip into the path of the stitching mechanism, clamping means for placing the strip under tension, and means for releasing said clamping means, said strip shifting means and clamp releasing means operative simultaneously.

29. ln a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for reversing and guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for holding said strip ont of the path of the stitching mechanism, means for shifting said strip into the path of the stitching mechanism, clamping means for placing the strip under tension, and means for releasing said clamping means,

said strip shifting means and clamp releasing means operative simultaneously.

30. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having at one end a strip guide having an angular slot and at its opposite end a guide slot and a projecting portion, means cooperating with said projecting portion for shifting said member in one direction, and means for moving said member in the opposite direction.

3l. ln a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding afstrip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having at one end a strip guide having an angular slot and at its, opposite end a guide slot and a projecting portion, a shiftable beveledmember cooperating with said projecting portion for shifting said member in one direction, and a spring for moving said member in the opposite direction.

32. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having at one end a stri i guide having an angular-ly disposed slot anc at its opposite end a guide slot and a projecting portion, a shiftable beveled member cooperating with said projecting portion for shifting said member in one direction, a spring for moving said member in, the opposite direction, and means aaa/acca cooperating with said beveled member for reciprocating it.

In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having at one end a strip guide having an angularly disposed slot and atl its opposite end a guide slot and a projecting portion, a shiftable beveled member cooperating with said projecting portion for shifting said member in one direction, a spring for moving said member in the opposite direction, and means cooperating with said beveled member for reciprocating it, said means including a treadle.

34. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having at one end a strip guide having an angularly disposed slot and at its opposite end a guide slot and a projecting portion, a shiftable beveled member coperating with said projecting portion for shifting said member in one direction, a spring for moving said member in the opposite direction, means cooperating with said beveled member for reciprocating it, said means including a treadle, and means for returning said beveled member to its normal position.

35. ln a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a. strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having at one end a strip guide having an angula-rly disposed slot and at its opposite end a guide slot and a projecting portion, means coperating with said projecting portion for shifting said member in one direction, means for moving said member in the opposite direction, and means for placing said strip under tension.

36. ln a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guidinga strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having at one end a strip guide having an angularly disposed slot and at its opposite end a guide slot and a projecting portion, a shiftable beveled member cooperating with saidprojecting portion for shifting said member in one direction, a spring for moving said member in the opposite direction, and means for placing said strip under tension.

37. ln a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable memberhaving at one end a strip guide having an angularly disposed slot and at its opposite end a guide slot and a projecting portion, means coperating with said projecting portion for shift- 'ing said member in one direction, means for moving said member in the opposite direction, said means compri sing a pair of clamping members one mova )le relatively to the other, and means for releasing said clamping members.

38. In a sewing machine, the com'bination with stitching mechanism, of -means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having at one end a strip guide having an angularly disposed slot and at its opposite end a guide slot and a projecting portion, a shiftable beveled member coperating with said projecting portion for shifting said member in one direction, a spring for moving said member in the opposite direction, means for placing said strip under tension, said meansv comprising a pair of clamping members one movable relatively to the other, and means for releasing said clamping members.

39. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having at one end a strip guide having an angularly disposed slot and at its opposite end a guide slot and a projecting portion, means coperating with said projecting portion for shifting said member in one direction and comprising a beveled member and means for reciprocating it, a spring for moving said strip guiding means in the opposite direction, means for placing said strip under tension, and means for releasing said tension means.

40. In a vsewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having at one end a strip guide having an'angularly disposed slot and at its oppositeend a guide slot and a projecting portion, means coperating with said projecting portion for shifting said member in one direction and comprising a beveled member and means for reciprocating it, a spring for moving said strip guiding means in the opposite direction, means for placing said strip under tension, and means for releasing said tension means, said last means also comprising a beveled member connected with said first beveled member whereby both of said beveled members are operative simultaneously.

41. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having at one end a strip guide having an angularly disposed slot 'and at its opposite end a guide slot and a projecting portion, a shiftable member coperating with said projecting portion for shifting said strip guide in one direction, means connected with said strip guide for moving it in the opposite direction, clamping means for placing the strip under tension, and means coperating with said clamping means for releasing it.

42. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having at one end a strip guide having an angularly disposed slot and at its opposite end a ide slot and a projecting portion, a shitlzible member coperating with said projecting portion for shifting said strip guide in one direction, means connected with said strip guide for moving it in the opposite direction, clamping means for placing the strip under tension, and means coperating with said clamping means for releasing it, said clamp releasing means and one of said strip guide moving means being connected for simultaneous operation.

43. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having at one end a strip guide having an angularly disposed slot and at its opposite end a guide slot and a projecting portion, a shiftable member coperating with said projecting portion for shifting said strip guide in one direction, means connected with said strip guide for moving it in the opposite direction, clamping means for placing the strip under tension, means coperating with said clamping means for releasing it, said clamp releasing means and one of said strip guide 'moving means being connected for simultaneous operation, and a pedal for operating said simultaneously operative parts.

44. In a sewing machine, having a cloth plate, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member carried by the cloth plate and having at one end a strip guide having an angularly disposed slot and at its opposite end a guide slot and a projecting portion, a beveled member coperating with said projecting portion for shifting said strip guide, means connected with said beveled member for shifting it, strip tension means comprising a clamping member having guides for said strip, a beveled member coperating with said clamping member for releasing the tension, said beveled member connected with said first beveled member, and means for operating both of said beveled members simultaneously.

45. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having means for guiding the strip, means coperating with said shiftable member for shifting it in one direction, means for moving said shiftable member in the opposite direction, and means for limiting the movement of the strip when shifted in one direction.

46. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means :tor guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having means for guiding the strip, means coperating with said shitable member :tor shiftin it in one direction, means for moving said shiftable member in the opposite direction, one of said means comprising a spring,

and means for' limiting the movement of the stri when shifted in one direction.

ai?. in a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having means lfor guiding the strip, means coperating with said shift-able member for shifting it in one direction, means for moving said shiftable member in the opposite direction, one of said means comprising a positively acting means, and means for limiting the movement of the strip when shifted in one direction.

48. ln a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having means for guiding the strip, means coperating with said shiftable member for shifting it in one direction, means :tor moving said shiftable member in the opposite direction, one of said means comprising a spring and the other a positively acting means, and means for limiting the movement of the strip when shifted in one direction.

49. ln a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having means :tor guiding the strip, means coperating with said shiftable member for shifting it in one direction, means for moving said shiftable member in the opposite direction, and means for retarding the movement of the strip thereby to place it under tension.

50. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having means for guiding the strip, means co erating with said shiftable member for Shiiting it in one direction, means for moving said shiftable member in the opposite direction, one of said means comprising a spring,

and means for retarding the movement of the strip and thereby placing it under tension.

51. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, oit means i'oi guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having means for guiding the strip, means coperating with said shiftable member for shifting it in one direction, means for moving said shiftable member in the opposite direction, one oit said means comprising a posinari/,one

tively acting means, and means for retarding the movement of the strip and thereby place it under tension.

52. ln a sewing machine, the combination Iwith stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having means for guiding the strip, means coperating with said shittable member for shifting it in one direction, means for moving said shiftable member in the opposite direction, one of said means comprising a spring and the other a positively acting means, and means for retarding the movement of the strip and thereby place it under tension.

53. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having means for guiding the strip, means co erating with said shiftable member for shiing it in one direction, means for moving said shiftable member in the opposite direction, means for placing the strip under tension, and means for releasing said tension, said tension release means being operative simultaneously with one of the means for shifting said strip guiding means.

54. ln a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for 95 guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having means for guiding the strip, means coperating with said shiftable member for shiftin it in one direction, means for moving l0() said shiftable member in the opposite direction, one of said means comprising a spring, means Lfor placing the strip under tension, and means'for releasing said tension, said tension release means being operative simultaneously with one of the means for shifting said strip guiding means.

55. ln a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having means for guiding the strip, means coperating with said shiftable member for shifting it in one direction, means for moving said shiftable member in the opposite direction, one of said means comprising a positively acting means, means for placing the strip under tension, and means for releasing said tension, said tension release means being operative simultaneously with said positively acting means.

56. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of' means :tor guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member having means for guiding the strip, means coperating with said shiftable member for shifting it in one direction, means for moving said sliiftable member in the opposite direction, one ot said means comprising a spring and the other a positively acting means, means for placing the strip under tension,

and means forrelcasing said tension, said' tension release means being operative simultaneously with said positively acting means.

57. In a. sewing machine having a cloth plate provided with a depending portion, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member carried by the cloth plate and having strip guiding means, means coperatng therewith for shifting said strip guiding means in one direction, means connected therewith for shifting it in the opposite direction, and means carried by the depending portion of the cloth pla-te for placing the strip under tension.

58. In a sewing machine having a cloth plate provided with a depending portion, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip t0 the stitching mechanism and comprising a shiftable member carried by the cloth plate and having strip guiding means, means cooperating therewith for shifting said strip guiding means in one direction, means connected therewith for shifting it in the opposite direction, means carried by the depending portion of the cloth plate for placing the strip under tension, and means coperating with one of the means for shifting said strip guiding means for releasing said tension means simultaneously with the shifting of said strip guiding means.

59. In a sewing machine having a cloth -plate provided with a depending portion, a

sliding member carried by said cloth plate and having means for guiding an elastic strip and provided with a depending portion, a shiftable member coperating With the depending portion of said sliding member for shifting it in one direction,-a spring for shifting it in the opposite direction and holding it in such shifted position, a springcontrolled clamping member carried by the depending portion of the cloth plate for holding the strip under tension, and means cooperating with said clamping member for releasing it thereby to release the tension on the strip.

60. In a sewing machine having a cloth plate provided with a depending portion, a sliding member carried by said cloth plate and having means for guiding an elastic strip and provided with a depending portion, a shiftable member cooperating with the depending portion of said sliding member for shifting it in one direction, anspring for shifting it in the opposite direction and holding it in such shifted position, a springcontrolled clamping member carried by the depending portion of the cloth plate for holding the strip under tension, and means cooperating with said clamping member for ESL releasing it thereby to release the tension on the strip, said clamp releasing means and said shiftable member being operative simultaneously.

6l. In a sewing machine having a cloth plate provided with a depending portion, a sliding member carried by said cloth plate and having means for guiding an elastic strip and provided with a depending portion, a shiftable member coperating with the depending portion of said sliding member for shifting it in one direction, a spring for shifting it in the opposite direction and holding it in such shifted position, a s ringcontrolled clamping member carried y the depending portion of the cloth plate for holding the strip under tension, means coperating with said clamping member for releasing it thereby to release the tension on the strip, said clamp releasing means and said shiftable member being operative simultaneously, and a pedal for operating them.

G2. In a. sewing machine having a cloth plate provided With a depending portion, a sliding member carried by said cloth plate and having means for guiding an elastic strip and provided with a depending portion, a shiftable member coperating With the depending portion of said sliding member for shifting it in one direction, a spring for shifting it in the opposite direction and holding it in such shifted position, aspringcontrolled clamping member carried by the depending portion of the cloth plate for holding the strip under tension, means coperating with said clamping member for releasing itthereby to release the tension on the strip, said clamp releasing means and said shiftable member being operative simultaneously, and a pedal for operating them, said clamping member having strip guiding means. Y

63. In a sewing machine having a cloth plate provided with a depending portion, a sliding member carried by said cloth plate and having means for guiding an elastic strip and provided With a depending por,- tion, a shiftable member coperating with the depending portion of said sliding member for shifting it in one direction, a spring for shifting it in the opposite direction and holding it in such shifted position, a springcontrolled clamping member carried by the depending portion of the cloth plate for holding the strip under tension, means cooperating With said clamping member for releasing it thereby to release the tension on the strip, said clamp releasing means and said shiftable member being operative simultaneously, and a pedal for operatingthem, said clamping member having strip guiding means, the strip guiding means of the sliding member including a iattened tubular member.

6d. ln a sewing machine having a cloth plate provided with a depending portion, a sliding member carried by said cloth plate and having means for guiding an elastic strip and provided with a depending portion, a shiftable member cooperating with the depending portion of said sliding member for shifting it in one direction, a spring for shifting it in the opposite direction and holdin it in such shifted position a springcontroed clamping member carrled by the dependin portionl of the cloth plate for holding t e strip under tension, means cooperating withsaid clamping member for releasing it thereby to release the tension on the strip, said clamp releasing means and said shiftable member being operative simultaneously, and a pedal for operating them, said clamping member having strip guiding means, the strip guiding means of the sliding member including a flattened tubular member having an angularly disposed slot communicatingtherewith for releasing the strip.,

' 65. in a sewing machine having a cloth plate, the combination with stitching mechanism` and hemming mechanism, of means for guiding an elastic strip to the stitching mechanism, means for shifting said strip to and away from the stitching mechanism, means for placing the strip under tension when shifted away from the stitching mechanism, means for releasing said tension, feeding means comprising a top feed and a bottom feed, and means so connecting the top feed and the bottom feed that the cloth plate with its hemming and strip guiding means may be removed without disconnecting said feeding mechanism.

66. In a sewing machine having a cloth plate, the combination with stitching mechanism and hemming mechanism, of means for guiding an elastic strip to the stitching mechanism, means for shifting said strip to and away from the stitching mechanism, means for placing the strip under tension when shifted away from the stitching mechanism, means for releasing said tension, feeding means comprising a top feed and a bottom feed, and means so connecting the top feed and the bottom feed that the cloth plate with its hemming and strip guiding means may be removed without disconnecting said feeding mechanism, said feed connecting means extending around the rear edge of the cloth plate.

67. in a sewing machine having a cloth plate, the combination with stitching mechanism and hemming mechanism, of means for guiding an elastic strip to the stitching mechanism, means for shifting said strip to and away from the stitching mechanism, means for placing the strip under tension when shifted away from the stitching mechanism, means for releasing said tension,

maracas feeding means comprising a top feed and a bottom feed, means so connecting the top feed and the bottom feed that the cloth plate with its hemming and strip guiding means may be removed without disconnecting said feeding mechanism, a presser foot, and means connecting the top feed with the presser foot and comprising a pair of vertical parallel bars connected at their ends.

68. in a sewing machine having'a cloth plate, the combination with stitching mechanism and hemmin mechanism, of means for guiding an elastic stri to the stitching mechanism, means for shi ing said strip to and away from the stitching mechanism, means for placing the strip under tension when shifted away from the stitchingmechanism, means for releasing said tension, feeding means comprising a top feed and a bottom feed, means so connecting the top feed and the bottom feed that the cloth plate with its hemming and strip guiding means may be removed without disconnecting said feeding mechanism, said feed connecting means extending around the rear edge of the cloth plate, a presser foot, and means connecting the top feed with the presser foot and comprising a pair of vertical parallel bars connected at their ends.

69. in a sewing machine, the combination of stitching and feeding mechanism, hemming means, means for guiding an elastic strip into position within the hem, means for shifting said elastic strip to and from the stitching mechanism, and means for clamping said elastic strip when shifted away, from the stitching mechanism and for releasing it when shifted into the path of the stitching mechanism, said guiding means including means for changing the direction of movement of the strip.

70. in a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism and for Changing the direction of movement of said strip, and means for shifting said stri guiding means into and out of the path) of the stitching mechanism and including means for automatically retarding the movement of the strip during a part of the stitching movement.

71. 1n a sewing machine, the combination of stitching and feeding mechanism, means for guiding a strip into position to be stitched, means for shifting said strip to and from the stitching mechanism, and means controlled by said shifting means for clamping said strip when shifted away from the stitching mechanism and for releasing it when shifted into the path of the stitching mechanism.

72. 1n a sewing machine the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, and means for clamping the strip at one time, thereby to retard the movement thereof and stretch thev strip to narrow it and thus carry it out of the path of the stitching mechanism to prevent the stitching of said strip and for releasing the strip at another time, whereby the strip is permitted to return to its normal unstretched condition and into the path of the stitching mechanism whereby it will be stitched.

73. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for holding said strip out of the path of the stitching mechanism at one time and in the path of the stitching mechanism at another time and for placing the strip under tension during one of these times and for releasing such tension thereon during another of these times.

' 74. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism,means under the control of the operator for shifting said strip out of the path of the Stitching mechanism at one time and into the path of the stitching mechanism at another time and means controlled by said shifting means for placing the strip under tension during one of these times and for releasing the tension thereon during another of these times.

75. In a sewing machine, the combination of feeding mechanism, stitch forming mechanism having two spaced needles and complemental stitch forming devices for the respective needles, means for guiding a fabric to the needles and forming a pocket therein, a guide for directing a tape between the needles and in the pocket formed by the stitching mechanism, means for supporting said guide in position so that the tape when free from tension will be engaged by one of the needles, and means for placing said tape under tension at the will of the operator for withdrawing the tape from the path of the needle whereby the tape will be placed in the pocket free from the lines of stitching.

76. In a sewing machine, the combination of feeding mechanism, stitch forming mechanism having a needle, means for guiding a fabric to the stitching mechanism, a guide for directing an-elastic tape when free from tension into the path of the needle, means for holding said guide in position, means for placing said elastic tape under tension at a point some distance from the needle thereby to carry said strip out of the path of the needle, and manually operating means for releasing said tension at will.

77. In a sewing machine, the combination of feeding mechanism, stitch forming mechanism having a needle, means for guiding a fabric to the stitching mechanism, a guide located to direct an elastic strip at an angle and into the path of the needle, and means for engaging said strip at the will of the operator for diverting said strip from the path of the needle without interfering with the continued stitching of the fabric independently of the elasticl strip and to return said strip into the path of the needle to permit the strip to be stitched to the fabric whereby the completed garment will have a portion of the strip stitched and another portion thereof unstitched.

78. In a sewing machine, the combination of feeding mechanism, stitch forming mechanism having a needle, means for guidin a fabric to the stitching mechanism, a guide ocated in position for directing an elastic strip at an angle to its initial direction and into the path of the needle when free from tension, and means for placing said elastic strip under tension at the will of the operator thereby to divert it from the path of the needle. Y

79. In a sewing machine, the combination of feeding mechanism, a work support, a

presser foot, stitch forming mechanism 1ncluding spaced needles, means for guiding a fabric to the stitching mechanism whereby a pocket is formed therein, a guide located to direct an elastic strip at an angle to its initial direction of movement and into said pocket and into the path of one of said needles when said strip is free from tension, means whereby said strip may be put under tension, and manually controlled means for Ireleasing the tension at the will of the operator.

80. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, said guiding means including means for changing the direction of movement of said strip, and means for automatically retarding the movement of the strip during a part of the stitching operation and releasing said strip during another part of the stitching operation.

81. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, and means for placing the strip under tension at one time thereby to hold said strip out of the path of the stitching mechanism and for releasing said tension at another time thereby to permit the strip to return into the path of the stitching mechanism.

82. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for placing the strip under tension at one time thereby to hold said strip out of the path of the stitching mechanism and for releasing said tension at another time thereby to permit the strip to return into the path of the stitching mechanism, and means controlled by the operator for operating said tension means.

83.' In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism zm feeding meehenism, means for guiding an elastic stfip te the Work, and means foi intending seid elastic strip at one time thereby to csiry it away from the stitching mechanism and for ieleasing it at another time thereby to carry it into the path o the stitching mechanism.'

84e. 'In e sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism and feeeing mechanism, means :for guiding en eiestio strip to the Wonka ineens for reteidng said :Let/mes elastic strip at one time thereby to carry it mvay from the stitching mechanism and for ielessing it at smother time thereby to carry it into the path of the stitching mechanism, and means under the control of the operator foi' ope'ating seid elastic strip retarding ineens.

Signed et Nyack, in the county of Rocklanci and State of New York, this 3rd day 0i July, 191%.

JHN P. WEEES. 

